Dag 9: Louvain tot Zebra Lodge (40km in 40 grade C)

Het jy al ooit buite in die son gestaan as dit 40 grade C is? Het jy al ooit heeldag buite in die son gestaan as dit 40 grade C is? Het jy al ooit heeldag buite in die son gestap met n rugsak op as dit 40 grade C is? Sien waarheen hierdie storie lei - ek probeer net die punt maak van ongelooflike, uitmergelende hitte. Die tipe waar jy in n half beswymende toestand stap terwyl jy jou verbeel elke klip en elke stok is n mamba of ander gedierte!

Louvain gasteplaas is pragtig, kompleet met kerkie en al vir jong boertjies van die kontrei wat "die knoop wil deurhaak". Ons vertrek eers half-7 en moet die ongeveer 2.5km op die plaas ook stap voor ons weer die R62 bereik. Almal met wie ons praat stel voor dat ons die plaaspaaie stap wat ongeveer parallel aan eers die N9 en dan die N12 loop, maar dalk 'n paar kilometers langer is.

Dit klink sommer na 'n bak plan om vir 'n slag grondpaaie in plaas van snelwee te stap, en na ongeveer 8km op die N9 (Route 62) draai die grondpad af om deur die Eseljagspoort te gaan. Ons stop vinnig om voete te lawe en versterkings te eet en begin dan met die 24km stuk grondpad.

Nie 'n kar in sig nie en ons kan lekker in die middel van die pad stap om seker te maak dat daar nie dalk onverwags 'n slang uit die gras seil nie! Stadig maar seker gaan die kilometers verby terwyl die kwik reeds op 40 grade staan. Het jy al ooit ...? :)

Baie gou is al 8 liter water wat ons saamdra ook 40 grade - selfs die wat tussen ander goed in die middel van die rugsak gepak is! Alles insluitend die rugsak is kokend warm en op die hele pad is nie 'n boom in sig nie.

Ons loop later mekaar se skaduwee en probeer onthou hoe gaan "Oom Jan sny koring in die land". Die omgewing is droog, klipperig en baie stof. Lyk na meerendeels volstruis en skaapboerdery. Plek-plek waar daar w dammetjies water is, staan die bekommerde skapies in hul hordes pensdiepte in die water.

Teen 17:20 bereik ons die einde van die grondpad waar dit weer aansluit by die N12. Nog n kilometer verder en die afdraai na Zebra Lodge is op links. Van hier nog 3.5km tot by die pragtigste ou plaashuis waar ons tuisgaan. Gelukkig kry die eienaar ons sommer vroeg in die inrit en kan ons saamry huistoe.

Ons drink n hoendersoppie op die stoep en kyk hoe die son ondergaan. Op die horison is n paar vlieswolkies en heimlik hoop ons hulle wil hul stem dik maak en damme vol reen!

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Day 8: Uniondale to Louvain

Knowing that we have a fairly long day ahead, and that we might not progress very fast as a result of foot troubles, we opted for an extra early start. We left Kammanassie Backpackers at 5:00, Norman and Sue kindly driving us to our starting point at the R62/N9 intersection.

Our walk got underway at 5:20, in the dark with an icy wind in our backs. Thoughts of the "spook van Uniondale" involuntary played in our minds...

It stayed cold till well after sunrise due to the wind, but it wasn't long before the sun started making it's presence felt.

Since we were in a sense testing Wouna's 'roadworthiness' after the recovery day, our times and distances were carefully planned. We knew according to all info that we had exactly 35km to walk, and we should make it to our destination by 17:00 at the latest. So you can imagine our shock when, after 20km, a passerby told us we still had 35km to go!

We again confirmed distances, and decided to push along. Upon reaching our target distance, however, there was still no sign of Louvain farm. We walked on for another kilometre, when a local farmer (Kobus Kamfer of neighbouring farm Ganzekraal) informed us we still had about 6km to go - not what you want to hear at 17:30 in the afternoon with burning blisters!

Luckily, with the assistance of a lift into the farm's 2.5km driveway, we made our destination before dark.

The stay at Louvain was great, and our hosts assisted us figuring out our route for day 9. The guesthouse itself is quite stunning, and as someone who's photographed a few weddings in my time, I can just imagine the great shots you can get in that setting!

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Day 7: Rest, recovery and reflection in Uniondale

Reviewing the condition of Wouna's red and swollen blisters this morning, we realised we didn't have much of a choice but to call a rest day, and spend some quality time with our feet in the air.

Besides allowing our bodies to get over some of the shock of what hit them the previous 6 days, it also gave us time to eventually catch up on our blog updates (thanks to Norman and Kammanassie Backpackers for allowing us to use their internet for free) and to think back over the trip so far.

A moment that stood out was when we passed a local on the side of the road, who turned, looked at us quizzingly and asked: "Where is this journey taking you?". Quite a fundamental question, and one we're still contemplating.

Almost like Ryan Adams' question "If I could find my way back home, where would I go?".

Definitely something worth reflecting on. If we find the answer somewhere down the road, we'll be sure to let you know!

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Day 6: Haarlem to Uniondale

Haarlem is 'n klein-klein landelike dorpie met ongeveer 9 blanke inwoners. As gevolg van die droogte het die damvlakke gedaal tot net 20% wat tot gevolg het dat die water nie regtig meer "fit for human consumption" is nie. Gelukkig het 1 inwoner 'n fontein op sy landgoed wat almal van drinkwater voorsien.

Die nare gevolg van die water probleem is dat my heerlike bad van die vorige aand, waar ek my moee voete lekker ge-soak het in die onsuiwer water (waarvan ek op die tyd onbewus was), die blase heeltemal ontsteek het. Alles is opgehewe, rooi en vuurwarm.

Ons spring net na 6-uur weg terwyl die lug nog koel is en die son net-net mik oor die berge. Na ongeveer 5km kom die spuitnaald weer uit en Gerry besluit om hierdie keer die gevreesde bruin voggies toe te dien. 'n Paar vloeke later, Berocca Calmag as troosprys en ons is vort.

Hierdie deel van die pad is steeds deel van die Langkloof alhoewel 'n vroeere bord aangedui het dat die Langkloof net anderkant Misgund stop. Die rede hiervoor is die Oos-Kaap/Wes-Kaap grens, en watter munisipaliteit vir die bord betaal! Oos-Kaap, betaal, so wat hulle aanbetref eindig die Langkloof op die grens...

Die paadjie loop steeds op en af teen die bultjies en weerskante appel en peer boorde. Plek-plek is plukkers soms al singende en soms kastig skellend op mekaar, hard aan die werk op lang lere tussen die bome. Teen ongeveer 12:00 bereik ons Avontuur. 'n Entjie voor ons in die pad hou 'n voertuig stil en 'n vrou klim uit met die Kouga Express koerant. "Is dit julle die?", en vra of ons die beriggie al gesien het. Hulle is boere in die omgewing en besit ook 'n gasteplaas naby Avontuur.

Die laaste paar dae is bloedig warm wat dit onmoontlik maak om drinkwater onder "warm" te hou. Nog ongeveer 12km en ons bereik die einde van die Langkloof in die Uniondale omgewing teen ongeveer 14:30.

Ons gaan tuis by Kammanassie Backpackers op Uniondale, wat ook aan Peter Earle behoort. Norman en Sue, die managers, bederf ons met 'n hele kamer plus badkamer vir onsself, asook 'n heerlike aandete.

O ja, en my verkoue is ten spyte van - eerder as gevolg van - die nat weer, sonbrand en blootstelling aan die elemente 100% beter!

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Day 5: Louterwater to Haarlem

After being picked up by Janine and dropped off at the entrance to Louterwater Estate, we were on our way around 6:30.

Due to the previous day being a little shorter than anticipated, day 5 became longer, but still manageable at just over 30km. The weather had changed from cool and overcast earlier in our trip to blazingly hot - so much so that by midday the water in our water bottles was on the warm side of luke-warm. Not nice at all!

Luckily this was the one day where we actually passed a town/settlement en route, in the form of the small town of Misgund. Here we bought massive juicy pears (R1 each) from a local by the roadside - unfortunately probably stolen fruit, but we were too hot and tired to worry about that. We also bought Yogi-sip and cooldrinks which provided a much needed boost.

An interesting experience, walking in the Langkloof this time of year, is the constant, faint smell of rotting fruit - apples and pears on the roadside that must have falled off trucks. Not bad, just a distinct, sweet smell, almost like apple juice.

After crossing the border between the Eastern and Western Cape, we reached the town of Haarlem by 3:30, happy with our good progress, but didn't realise how long and spread out the town was. Being tired, sore and slow by this time, it took us another hour and a half to reach our destination - the house of Peter and Sheila Earle, which Peter kindly offered to us as a place to stay 2 days earlier. We had a great evening with the Earle's, with cold beer, a nice hot home-cooked meal and many stories about the interesting little town of Haarlem. Thanks so much for this, Peter and Sheila.

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Day 4: Joubertina to Louterwater

After two very long days on the road, getting up for Day 4's journey required some serious mental gymnastics. At least the realisation that this was going to be one of the shorter days helped to get us on the road.

Due to arriving after the shops had closed the previous night, we were forced to do some early morning shopping before the start of the day. I jogged (well, almost) the 2km back to town, got what I could in terms of supplies, and we eventually got underway at 9:30 - our latest start yet.

Physically the day was fairly uneventful, except for Wouna's niggling blisters that required some severe interventions in the form of excrutiatingly painful Friar's Balsam injections - not something I'd wish on my worst enemy!

The scenery remained incredible, with apple and pear orchards stretching out on each side, bordered by magnificant mountains. Even the drought and veld fires couldn't blemish the beauty of the region.

Being a Saturday, the level of social activity en route was quite high. Party revellers were speeding in every direction, obviously under the influence. This was a bit nerve-wrecking from roadside, but luckily there were no insidents that we were aware of. There also appeared to be a soccer game underway somewhere, as loads of supporters, on foot and in cars, passed us in the direction of Joubertina.

People's roadside reactions remained friendly and supportive, with everyone hooting and waving, and two people stopping to commend our efforts and promising to pray for our wellbeing on the road.

After passing Louterwater station, we were suprised to reach Louterwater Estate sooner than anticipated. What a lovely suprise! Owner Janine came and fetched us at the entrance and drove us 5km into the farm to the most magnificant setting - 4 log cabins set amidst the mountains!

The area had no cellphone reception, so we were unable to inform our families of our safe arrival. Just as we were about to go to bed for the night, we were suprised by the arrival of a police van - sent by worried family to come check if we were OK! More suprisingly, one of the officers turned out to be the same guy who stopped next to us earlier in the day to wish us well on our travels! Small world!

Our overnight spot at Louterwater Estate was absolutely breathtaking - thanks so much to Janine for the opportunity to recharge body and soul!

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Day 3: Kareedouw to Joubertina

Happy birthday, dear Harry - happy birthday to you! Hiep-hiep-hoera!

Ons vertrek weer later as beplan (7:00) vanaf n koel, bewolkte Kareedouw. Die langkloof is pragtig. En die pad wat deur die berge kronkel is steeds undulating - bultjie op bultjie af. Die veldbrande het kwaai verwoesting gesaai, maar met die reen van die afgelope tyd is die nuwe groei amper onnatuurlik groen teen die swart as en boomstompe.

"The long and winding road" van die Beatles draai in my kop terwyl ons treetjie vir treetjie die kilometers aftel. Nie lank nie, of n motreentjie sak uit. Maar die reenbaadjies was skaars aan of dit klaar op - vir die res van die dag.

Ons skoene is nog nat van die vorige dag wat tot gevolg het dat ons voete baie vinnig reeds soos pruimedante lyk! En ek het ongelukkig voetsole wat 3 sizes te groot is vir my voete! Blase is dus onafwendbaar deel van my roetine. Maar ek het voorsorg getref hierdie keer met goeie raad van 'n mede-Cape-Odyssey deelnemer, Greg, wat voorgestel het dat jy die blaas met Friars Balsam moet inspuit. Dit werk soos 'n bom, maar ek het net een woord om dit te beskryf: "%$#&#@!!$$%"!!!

Gerry se 'mechanics' is klaarblyklik beter ontwerp as myne, want benewens ligte spierpyn in hy so reg soos 'n roer. Gelukkig!

Alhoewel dit al bietjie gereen het in die Langkloof, is die riviere en damme maar baie droog.

Die Langkloof se mense is baie vriendelik: een man bied aan om ons 'n lift te gee, terwyl 'n ander sy reuse trok langs die pad teen 'n bult tot stilstand bring omvir ons 6 yskoue vars appels te bring - absoluut hemels! Dankie! Nog 'n vrou wat ons uit Karedouw sien stap het, en ons verblyf situasie met die eienaar (Anton?) van The Nest opgehaal het, kom van voor af 10km terug gery om blyplek aan te bied! (Ons was egter reeds geholpe met verblyf by Die Kraaltjie.) En ongeveer 2km verder stop Peter om vir ons blyplek op Haarlem aan te bied by hom en sy vrou Shiela. Wat 'n wonderlike verjaarsdag geskenk! Die Langkloof is 'n wonderlike gebied - besoek dit eendag.

Die tweede lang dag in 'n ry op die pad word ook 'n laat aand. Ons arriveer teen 19:00 by die afrit tot Joubertina en ons planne om 'n bubbly of wyntjie te koop om Gerry se verjaarsdag te vier lei tot niks. Winkels is reeds toe en die kroeg en restaurant by Die Ark op Roete 62 verkoop nie bottels nie - reels is reels.

Nog 2km verder bereik ons die Kraaltjie, en nog 'n kampeer-aanbieding verander in 'n heerlike cottage vir die aand. Baie dankie, Elize, ons het heerlik gebly!

En so lei die "Long and winding road" ons deur 'n pragtige deel van SA, die Langkloof, op Gerry se verjaarsdag. Wat 'n dag om te onthou!

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