Tuesday, March 23, 2010

A final list of thanks, hugs and kisses...

This endeavour would not have been possible without the support of the following:

1) Thanks to DigiCape (South Africa's largest independent Apple retailer) for the generous discount on our brilliant new iPhone, which made staying in touch on the road an absolute joy!

2) A special thanks to the following people who have been so kind as to provide us with free or discounted accommodation during our trek through the Karoo:
* the Ben Marais Caravan Park in Humansdorp
* Handrie at Die Plaaswerf outside Kareedouw - a stunning Langkloof 'kuierplek' (dieplaaswerf@telkomsa.net)
* Elize at Die Kraaltjie Guest House and Caravan Park outside Joubertina - this place is an institution among Langkloof travellers (vgreunen@lantic.net)
* Janine at Louterwater Estate at Louterwater between Joubertina and Uniondale - a haven of tranquility on a gorgeous apple farm (admin@louterwaterestate.co.za)
* Peter and Sheila, for opening up their home and hearts to us at Haarlem
* Norman and Sue at Kammanassie Backpackers in Uniondale - a great and friendly Klein Karoo establishment (kammback@gmail.com)
* Florence at Louvain Guest Farm between Uniondale and Oudtshoorn - a beautiful spot for a breakaway or wedding (info@louvain.co.za)
* Marietha at Zebra Lodge between George and Oudtshoorn - experience true old-world charm (0836323780)
* Ilse at Karoo Soul in Oudtshoorn - cool and upmarket accommodation for the discerning backpacker (info@karoosoul.com)
* Elana at Bouganvillea Backpackers in Calitsdorp - a laid-back and comfortable base for exploring SA's port capital (bvbackpacker@telkomsa.net)
* Nealle and Dwayn at Barn 62 Backpackers at Amalienstein between Calitzdorp and Ladismith -a fun new pub and backpackers in the middle of nowhere (van@barn62.co.za)
* Gerda at Elandsvlei just outside Ladismith - true farmstyle hospitality on a working farm right next to town (gerda.krynauw@telkomsa.net)
* Frieda at Warmwaterberg Spa between Ladismith and Barrydale - the best-kept holiday secret in the Klein-Karoo (info@warmwaterbergspa.co.za)
* Karen at Barrydale Backpackers in Barrydale - a vibrant and upmarket new addition to the backpacker circuit (info@ctitours.co.za)
* Jodi at Akkerboom Country Cottages between Barrydale and Montagu - a stunning and tranquil retreat in the mountains (reservations@akkerboomcountrycottages.com)
* Wayne and Kirstin at The Mystic Tin and Karoo Brew(ery) in Montagu - a really great backpackers full of character, and Wayne's lovely home-brew to boot (info@themystictin.co.za)
* Lynda at Robertson Backpackers in Robertson - an R62 backpacking institution (info@robertsonbackpackers.co.za)
* Neil and Elize at Da Rooms in Worcester - nice, centrally located accommodation, with friendly and helpful hosts (darooms@vodamail.co.za)
* Mattie and Adri at Cummings Guesthouse in Wellington - a truly welcoming and hospitable establishment in the friendly town of Wellington (stay@wellington-accommodation.com)
* Margot and Frank at BergzIcht Guesthouse in Malmesbury - personal and very hospitable accommodation in the heart of the Swartland (info@bergzichtlodgings.co.za)
* Barbara and John at Daisyfield Guesthouse in Darling - a gem of a guesthouse, where you get treated like royalty (barbaram@worldonline.co.za)

3) Food for body and soul were provided by many kind people along the way. Three cheers to:
* The unknown truckdriver outside Joubertina, for 6 fresh, ice-cold apples by the roadside
* Peter and Sheila, for a hearty stew and ice-cold beer in Haarlem
* Norman and Sue, for a delicious chicken braai in Uniondale
* the couple between Calitzdorp and Ladismith, for the grapes (and medical supplies)
* Mev de Vries, for the wonderful water suckers and juice en route to Barrydale
* Stuart Byrne, for coffee, wine and a personally delivered Wimpy meal by the roadside outside Montagu
* Wayne, for his smooth, home-brewed ale in Montagu
* Robert, for a lovely restaurant dinner in Worcester
* Farmer Riaan on the road outside Worcester, for the bag of dried fruit from his farm stall
* Barbara and John, for a magnificant braai, some great wines and breakfast in Darling.
* Pieter, Jacques, Pierre and the two Marelize's, for the great braai and chats after the finish at Yzerfontein.

4) Thanks to everyone on Facebook who joined our group, for your messages and support. You provided invaluable entertainment and encouragement along the way.

5) To everyone en route who waved, hooted and stopped for a chat - thank you!!

6) To our concerned mothers, for worrying about us all the way.

7) A special thanks to Nico and Ida, for popping in for a visit 4 days before the finish, for fetching us at the end and for good company and lodging after the end of the trek.

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Dag 26: Darling tot Yzerfontein

"Come with me, together we can take the long way home." Tom Waits.

Vir oulaas herhaal ons die roetine wat vir omtrent 'n maand so deel geword het van ons lewe: vroeg opstaan, ongeveer 6-uur begin stap, twee of drie stoppe vir lunch ens op die pad, tien tot veertien ure later arriveer by ons volgende bestemming, kos koop waar winkels oop en beskikbaar is, gou was, kosmaak en eet, wasgoed was, voete versorg, web en FB updates, en slaap. Herhaal.

Teen hierdie tyd, omdat dit herfs word en ons al so ver wes gestap het, word dit eers na half-7 lig. Dis 'n rustige, half-mistige Sondagoggend op Darling.

Nadat ons ons gashere gegroet het, stap ons met 'n groot bult af, deur die half-slapende dorp. Hier en daar is mense besig om reg te maak vir kerk, terwyl 'n groot klomp besoekers, wat deelgeneem het aan 'n rally buite die dorp, besig is om karre aan te haak en op te pak vir hulle terugtog huistoe.

Teen omtrent half-8 stap ons by die dorp uit op die R315 pad na Yzerfontein. Wat 'n eienaardige gevoel om te weet dis die laaste keer wat ons op hierdie trip vroeg in die oggend uit een dorp stap oppad na 'n ander. Die laaste keer wat ons rugsakke opsit en met seer voete en lywe 'n hele dag in die natuur gaan deurbring. Die laaste keer wat ons heeldag langs 'n hoofpad is en gesels met mense wat stop, waai vir byna elke kar wat verbykom en toet of waai. Die laaste keer wat ons die doel van die stap verduidelik.

Dit is terselfdertyd 'n rustige en tevrede gevoel, maar ook 'n onrustige gevoel. Een van, wat nou? Wat volgende? Waar volgende? En hoe? Vir 'n maand lank het jy een doel voor oë gehad en nou's dit skielik nie meer daar nie. Afgehandel. Klaar gedoen. Is dit dalk die post-event depression waarteen vriend Dave ons gewaarsku het?

Die eerste 15km is undulating terwyl die koel bewolkte luggie vir 'n slag keer dat die son ons nie in die grond brand nie. Reuse slangvelle en doodgeryde slange is langs die pad. Koper kapelle - dodelik giftig. 'n Motor met twee bejaarde tannies stop om vir ons 'n lift aan te bied en vir die soveelste keer is ek verstom dat mense dit nog waag. Wie sê ons is nie twee skelms wat hulle van al hul besittings gaan beroof nie? Of het die media ons gek gemaak met al die negatiewe propaganda oor crime in ons land? Is ons onnodiglik paranoies?

Op die plek waar ons die R27 kruis is die Weskus Padstal en ons besluit om gou af te trek vir 'n bier en pastei. Nog net 9km en jy kan nie besluit of jy dit so lank as moontlik wil uitrek of so gou moontlik wil oorkry nie. Uiteindelik sien ons Yzerfontein in die verte en soos soveel kere tevore is dit onwerklik om terug te kyk en die berge in die verte te sien waar jy vroeër die dag begin het. So nou en dan waai 'n sweempie seelug verby en jy weet dis nou nie meer ver nie. Nico en Ida, ons lift aan die einde, kom van agter verby en stop gou vir 'n vinnige chat en grappie of twee.

En dan bereik ons na 26 dae die einde van ons journey met 'n paar vriende wat ons inwag: Nico, Ida, Stefan, Dewalt, Pieter, Marelize en Pierre. Pieter en Marelize bied middagete aan en ons kuier heerlik op hul stoep tot die son sak oor die see.

Ek hoor sommer hoe die ratte in ons koppe draai soos ons werk aan 'n volgende avontuur. Sorry ma en ma - nog is het einde niet!

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Monday, March 22, 2010

Day 25: Malmesbury to Darling

Strange how your body reacts during an endurance event when end is almost in sight. With just two days, and around 60kms to go, everything suddenly goes a bit pearshaped, as if your body already goes into shutdown/recovery mode.

As has become the trend the last few days, we again find it difficult to get going, finally hitting the road around 7:00. Suddenly the 36km distance, which looked easy in planning, seems like a huge mountain to climb. Still, as they say, the only way to eat an elephant is one bite at a time, so we set off, at each kilometre marker just aiming to reach the next.

While the day started cool and overcast, the clouds soon disappeared and we faced another hot day with almost no shade along the way. We made it to the 20km mark before breaking for lunch under almost the only tree en route, which unfortunately stood on the Darling Cellars grounds, so we had to climb over a fence to get to it. This made lunch a bit stressful as we kept expecting someone to come prosecute us for our tresspassing ('Private Property - Tresspassers will be prosecuted' signs seem to be a popular bit of decoration on every fence and wall in this country).

Somehow the kilometres passed faster than anticipated, and we got to the T-joint where Darling Road joins Old Darling Road (3km out of town) around 18:00. John Mills, owner of Daisyfield, our sponsored accommodation for the night, met us a bit later just outside town to take some photos for the local Darling newspaper, and then kindly took us for a drive through town to show us all the sights, including the famous Evita se Perron.

Aside from offering us a free night in the stunning Daisyfield Guesthouse, our hosts Barbara and John went out of their way to make our stay a highlight of our trip. We were treated to a lovely braai and some choice wines from the region. Barbara also gave us fruit salad, joghurt and muffins for breakfast, which was wonderful as we missed the Darling Spar the previous evening.

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Dag 24: Wellington tot Malmesbury

The ministry of funny walks

Soos wat gewoonlik gebeur as jy 'n niggle iewers het, begin jy anders loop om daarvoor te kompenseer. Die gevolg is 'n nuwe niggle met 'n nuwe loopstyl. Wat natuurlik weer ander kwale tot gevolg het. And so it goes. Alles wat kan ingee of oppak gebeur op sulke lang uithou-trips. Van blase tot bursas tot shins tot soolvratte. En jy hinkepink al hoe meer en dit lyk al hoe snaakser - elke dag anders.

Ons vertrek later as waarvoor ons gehoop het uit Wellington. Vroegmore stap ons tussen die huise deur terwyl mense regmaak vir werk en ander nog vinnig hulle oggend draffie probeer inkry. Nie lank nie of ons bereik die kleurling woonbuurt waar skoolkinders in die strate afstap oppad skool toe. Almal groet baie vriendelik en die algemene gevoel is vrolik en positief. Een man beduie vir sy sesjarige hoe om die pad oor te steek en stap dan fluit-fluit terug in sy huis terwyl hy vriendelik vir ons wuif.

Ons stap 'n paar kilometer op die Stellenbosch pad waarna ons dan afdraai op die R45 na Malmesbury. En skielik lyk die hele omgewing anders. Weivelde met heuwels sover as wat jy kan sien.

Die gras langs die pad lewe behoorlik. En dan sien jy die diertjies teen die spoed van weerlig tussen bossies hardloop. Veldmuise (of is dit dalk rotte?). Hulle hardloop behoorlik miniatuur klein voetpaadjies uit. En natuurlik is dit lekker take-out vir die slange, so ons kyk meer op die grond voor ons voete as om die omgewing te waardeer! Heelwat slangvelle en doodgeryde slange laat jou besef dat die geritsel in die gras dalk nie altyd muise is nie ...

Dis 'n lang warm dag en hier en daar stap ons tussen wingerdplase deur. Plaaswerkers skree en groet en ons soek skuiling onder omtrent die enigste boom op die pad.

Dis eienaardig as jy so terugkyk oor die pad waarmee jy gekom het en skielik lyk dorpe nie meer so ver uitmekaar nie. Agter ons in die verte lê die Du Toitsberge en jy weet aan die voet daarvan is Wellington. Net langs dit is die Slanghoekberge waardeur Bainspas loop en jy besef skielik hoe ver jy in twee dae gevorder het. En terselfdertyd weet jy ook Malmesbury lê net agter die volgende berg. So naby en tog so ver.

Ons bereik Malmesbury teen half-7 waar ons gasheer ons oplaai en by Spar aangaan voordat ons teen donker tuisgemaak word in 'n tuin kothuis - heeltemal privaat en pragtig mooi. Margot en Frank het ons verblyf gesponsor in hulle gastehuis, Bergzicht. En so kom nog 'n dag tot einde.

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Saturday, March 20, 2010

Day 23: Calabash pub to Wellington.

After the heavy traffic of the previous few days, we were expecting our walking conditions to improve today - gladly we were right.

The scenery on the Bains Kloof Pass is breathtaking, and despite the day being far from easy (30+ kms going over the pass is not exactly a walk in the park), the kilometres ticked over nicely thanks to the stunning views taking the attention away from our sore bodies.

A couple of kilometres from the start, a group of long-distance cyclists approached from the front. Turns out they started in Cape Town, with one guy aiming to cycle to Denmark, the second joining him through to Victoria Falls, and the final two just tagging along for the fun of it for 2 weeks or so. Sounds like fun!

Traffic on the pass was minimal, and you could hear approaching cars from far away, which made for perfect walking conditions. The road up the pass from Calabash, despite being uphill, was particularly enjoyable, with an amazing new mountain scene greeting you around each corner. At the top of the pass we stopped for a short lunch and to tend to Wouna's feet, before tackling the downhill towards Wellington.

The Bains Kloof Pass downhill turned out to be quite long and taxing, so we only made it to our overnight spot, the Cummings Guesthouse, after 18:00 (thank you so much for the lovely accommodation, Mattie!).

Adri, our host at the Cummings Guesthouse, went out of her way to make us feel welcome. We had a lovely quiet and relaxing night, leaving us refreshed and ready for the final 3 days.

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Thursday, March 18, 2010

Dag 22: Worcester tot Calabash Pub - maats kom kuier!

Die Klein-Karoo is aanmekaar gesit met spoeg en riete. :) So voel dit. Party plekke meer so as ander. Elke blyplek en kuierplek het of 'n rietdak of 'n rietskerm of 'n ander rietstellasie, maar riete is oral. Langs die pad, op sypaadjies, in droë strome, maar die meeste nog is net voor Worcester. Plate, sover as wat jy kan sien. Geen wonder almal gebruik dit as boumateriaal nie!

Worcester gee nie 'n lekker gevoel nie. Miskien is dit die reuse hoë-digtheid, lae-koste behuisingarea wat mens aan die kant van die dorp kry net voor jy die stad tref. Ons eerste indruk van die dorp. Of is dit al 'n stad? En volgens die locals vrot van die crime en gangsters en glad nie 'n plek waar jy in vrede wil stap in die skemer nie. Ons gasheer het gelukkig dit goedgedink om ons op te pik net voor ons die plakkers area bereik het. Dankie Elize en Neil!

Die stap uit Worcester was ook minder aangenaam. Die paaie is verskriklik besig en om op die R43 te kom, moes ons 'n deel op die N1 ook stap. Dis miskien deels waarom Worcester nie vir my goeie herinneringe bring nie; dis te groot, te onpersoonlik, te besig, te veel en vinnige karre op die pad.

Nodeloos om te se^ is die dag se stap minder aangenaam. Mens kan nie met mekaar praat nie want die verkeer raas te veel en ons moet in 'n ry stap en die heeltyd dophou vir jaagduiwels wat van agter af verby kom.

Teen lunchtyd bereik ons uiteindelik 'n deel waar die druiwe boere 'n grondpaadjie langs die pad teen die plaasheining met trekkers en sleepwaens uitgery het. Tog te lekker kan ons in vrede die laaste ongeveer derde van die pad stap.

Die pad loop verby Bothakelder, en later ook Waboom, Slanghoek wynkelder en uiteindelik Bergsig.

Na middagete besluit Gerry om bietjie my sak te dra om die pote te spaar (soos wat hy maar van tyd tot tyd doen as ek swaartrek). Ons grootste worry is om uit te kyk vir slange op die grondpaadjie en ons stap nog so lekker toe 'n boer op sy motorfiets aangery kom met twee seuns wat saam lift - een voor en een agter. "Vertel my julle storie", sê die man en Gerry begin verduidelik van die waterbewustheids-inisiatief en so voorts. Waarop hy my so een kyk gee en sê: "En is dit jou afdag?" ... En ek dink so by myself ... Jaaa, swaaaer ...

Nietemin, ons gesels nog so lekker oor allelei en so kom dit uit dat Riaan die eienaar is van 'n plaas wat onder andere droëvrugte maak. Die Rietdakkie is 'n padstal wat onder andere hulle droë vrugte verkoop. Dit word ook verkoop by die Tuinroete Agri winkelreeks. So stop hy 'n halfkilogram droë vrugte in my hand en sê: "Hierso, jy kan darem nie niks dra nie". :)

Hy verduidelik dat dit omtrent nog 8km is tot by Calabash Bush Pub waar ons vir Nico en Ida ontmoet vir 'n kuiertjie. Hulle het besluit om vinnig deur te ry vanaf Riebeek Kasteel en is dit nou nie absoluut 'n treat om 'n slag bekendes te sien nie!

En so kom nog 'n dag tot 'n einde en ons begin reeds wonder hoe die lewe gaan wees sonder hierdie ding wat nou al heeltemal deel geword het van ons lewe ...

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Day 21: Robertson to Worcester

We left Robertson Backpackers before 6:00, knowing we had a long day of almost 50km ahead. (Thanks for the breakfast offer, Landy - sorry we could not take you up on it!.)

We strongly considered splitting the day into two shorter stretches, but were unable to find any halfway accommodation. Also, we were already 3 days behind schedule as a result of our rest days and the shorter days we did after Oudtshoorn during the heat wave, so we decided to push through.

Traffic was really bad all the way, with cars and trucks speeding in all directions, making the days walk quite a nerve-wracking experience. It's interesting how weird people react to you around the bigger cities, as opposed to the deeper rural areas - people are much less open and inviting, instead appearing almost threatened by your presence. Big city paranoia, I guess...

Aside from the traffic stress, the days walk was most uneventful. We made a quick winetasting stop at Rooiberg, with lunch being a full-sun affair due to the complete lack of shade / picnic spots along the way. We planned to walk until 19:00 (by which time we were hoping to be in Worcester) and to then phone our host for the night, Neil from Da Rooms B&B, to come fetch us. However, due to the impending darkness and the fact that we entered the town via a fairly dodgy informal settlement & gangster area, Neil arrived a little bit sooner to take us past the problem areas to our overnight spot at Da Rooms. (Thanks, Neil!!)

Earlier in the day, we had a quick roadside chat to a guy called Robert. Much was our suprise, upon arriving at Da Rooms, to find Robert awaiting us, and offering us dinner at a local restaurant. Though we were dead tired, we obliged, and it ended up being quite an amusing evening.

Turns out Robert is more or less Mr Vespa in SA, having started a few clubs, driven just about everywhere in the country (barefoot, apparently...) on one of his (4!) Vespa's, and even being featured in Weg Magazine.

His next challenge is the 8 passes of the Drakensberg, including Sani Pass before it gets tarred. Should be quite a epic trip!!

And so another day came to an end with an unexpected twist in the tail.

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Tuesday, March 16, 2010

Dag 20: Montagu tot Robertson

Onse mense (ek praat nou oor die algemeen van die blanke Suid-Afrikaners [is nie naastenby so plesierig nie!]) het ongelukkig, weens omstandighede, bietjie die klits kwytgeraak. Ons (en ek sluit myself in - en weer eens, dis 'n veralgemening) is socially bietjie retarded. Ons het lankal vergeet hoe om mens te wees.

Kyk nou maar na die plattelanders. Die klein-dorpie mense. Hulle is sosiaal, joviaal, vriendelik - nog mens. Dan kry jy die (waarskynlik verwilderde Gautenger) wat jou aanstaar asof jy van Mars af kom. En ons lyk seker tans bietjie verweer en of ons dalk nie meer blank is nie van te veel ure in die son deurbring, maar rerig - dis nie nodig om oopmond te staar nie. En waag een van ons dit om te groet, val die ou se tor heeltemal af. Wat gewoonlik gepaardgaan met 'n nek afdraai 180 grade in die ander rigting.

Vandag weer sit ek by 'n padstal onder 'n boom - waar en hoe dan nou anders? Verbygetrippel kom mammie met 'n wye draai en staar so dat sy byna in 'n Corsa bakkie vasloop. Pappa word aan die arm gepluk om ook te kyk, waarop hy terstond hom dwars draai om die gedoente onder die boom te sien. En natuurlik moet mamma kyk dat pappa reggekyk het, en ek waag dit liewer nie om te wuif nie.

Die rede vir ons a-sosiale gedrag is waarskynlik omdat elke wuifende hand gewoonlik draai na 'n bakhand en elke 'hallo' eindig by 'n 'geldjie'. Ons het afgestomp geraak.

Vanaand op Robertson, eet ek 'n kilogram groente op! Moeg gepasta, biltong, tuna, pruimedante en neute. Ek kan nie onthou wanneer ek laas eiers, uie of kaas geeet het nie! Murgpampoen! Wortels! Eiervrug! - meer as 20 dae gelede laas.

Met die Argus op sy rug, was die pad vandag baie besig. Heelwat fietsryers met 'n mengsel van baie vriendelik tot baie onvriendelik. Die pas net buite Montagu is 'n pragtige kronkelende paadjie tussen die berge deur - nie eintlik bedoel (of spasie!) vir voetgangers nie. Het 'n paar benoude oomblikke beleef, maar dit was heeltemal die moeite werd.

Ons arriveer teen half-5 by die Robertson Backpackers waar Charles en Landy uit hul pad gaan om ons welkom te laat voel. Ons maak vinnig kos en na 'n glasie wyn, is ons in die vere. More is weer 'n lang dag.

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Day 19: Akkerboom Cottages to Montagu

Today started quiet and uneventful. We left the lovely Akkerboom cottage shortly after sunrise, and set on our way to Montagu - a fairly long distance of about 40kms away.

The first 5-10kms we walked in the shade of the surrounding mountains, making for a cool, almost chilly walk. After the big climb of the previous day, today was pleasantly undulating. After walking for a few hours, I mentioned to Wouna that this seemed like one of those plain, uneventful days you can summarize in a couple of short paragraphs.

This was not to be the case, however, not if a certain Stuart Byrne had any say in the matter... As we walked past an impressive looking farm called Mont Byrne Estate, a stout, blonde man on a tractor waved at us, shouted a greeting, and we started a long distance chat/shout, explaining where we came from and where we were headed.

'Do you want a bottle of sweet wine?', he shouted. Of course we were not going to decline. 'Come in, make yourselves at home!'. After showing his family the strange people he picked up from the road, we were served coffee, and then Stuart enquired whether we've ever bottled our own wine. Next thing we were escorted into his private cellar, where his 2008 port was lying ready for bottling. 'Grab some bottles and fill them up here,' he said. With the bottles filled, he showed us how to cork them, and then we were off to his office to do the labelling. Great fun.

Turns out that, in addition to the Mont Byrne boutique winery, Stuart also owns the Montagu Wimpy. So, besides giving a us 3 bottles of wine, he also arranged with the Wimpy manager to deliver burgers, chips and fruit shakes to us around lunchtime, wherever we were on our way to Montagu.

We left quite amazed. What a great experience. And what an amazing, jovial, full-of-life man.

The rest of the walk was fairly uneventful. A couple of lift offers (as we get most days) a very nice Capetonian couple who stopped for a chat (the guy is himself a keen runner and was wearing a Puffer t-shirt), and as promised our en route Wimpy lunch 15km from Montagu (thanks again, Stuart!).

We arrived at our destination, the Mystic Tin and Karoo Brew(ery) Backpackers, a place every bit as quaint and interesting as it's name suggests, where we were warmly welcomed by our hosts, Wayne and Kirsten. Wayne offered us each a glass of his home-brewed ale - a great end to a very intersting day.

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Saturday, March 13, 2010

Dag 18: Barrydale tot by die Akkerboom Country Cottages

Ons stap vanmore nog so lekker - want dis wat ons op die oomblik maar doen - in die koel Barrydale luggie toe daar 'n klein maleier/koi San vrou van voor af kom. "Waar stap mevrou heen?" wil sy weer. "Weskus" se^ ek. Nee, vertel sy, sy loop nou maar net dorp toe. Ek se^ toe, ja, sy't nog so 3km oor. "Hoe ver moet mevrou nog stap", vra sy, waarop ek antwoord dat dit net bietjie verder as 300km is. "Haai, ek hoop mevroutjie kry 'n lift" se^ sy bekommerd voor sy vort is.

Die stap wat voorle^ is een van die kortstes - net 22 km, wat beteken ons kan die Saterdag rustig vat en bietjie padlangs kuier. Ongeveer 12 km uit Barrydale oppad na Montagu kry ons die Joubert-Tradouw wynplaas (hulle het ook 'n tweede label genaamd Unplugged 62). Ongelukkig vir die binnelanders is die plaas nog te klein om baie wyd te bemark. Die Joubert-Tradouw reeks is baie lekker en die Unplugged 62 reeks is heel quaffable. Great value for money, as jy ooit hierdie rigting kom en jou versameling wil aanvul.

Na 'n paar proeseltjies, 'n bottel Chardonnay in die rugsak en 'n tros Cabernet Franc in die hand is ons weer op die pad. Snaaks, maar die Cab Frank druif is maar effens - klein korreltjies wat maklik breek as jy dit pluk, maar baie lekker.

Tradouw is 'n koi-San woord en beteken blykbaar "the way of the woman", soos in weg of pad, nie manier nie! Hier is blykbaar 'n pad deur die vallei wat die vroue gestap het, na slawerny afgeskaf is, om op Swellendam te gaan trou?

Die Tradouw vallei is ongelooflik mooi. Pragtige berge en heelwat vrugteboorde - groen en pragtig. Lyk amper nie of hulle ook swaarkry met die droogte nie.

Ongeveer 2km verder is die Karoo Saloon, waar ons amper oornag het, was dit nie so naby aan Barrydale nie. Tyd vir 'n bier! Karoo Saloon is nou 'n "padstal" met vavawoom. Groot kuier-stoepe en grasperke, all sorts of curios en selfs chalets as jy wil oorslaap. Oorspronklik was dit meer beplan om te cater vir bikers, maar nou is enigiemand welkom.

Ons chat bietjie met 2 bikers, later die eienaar en dan is dit nog net Tradouwpas wat tussen ons en ons slaapplek le^. Die pas is ook, soos baie ander in SA, 'n Sir Thomas Bain skepping en soos ons hoer en hoer gaan, het jy die mooiste view terug oor die vallei. Pragitg man. Ek sal sommer hier kon bly.

En dan bereik ons die Akkerboom Trading Post waar Jodi vir ons die sleutel gelos het (nog 'n wonderlike "padstal") en ongeveer 2km verder is ons in Plumbago - die naam van die cottage wat Jodi vir ons aangebied het. Baie mooi, in 'n vrugteboord tussen die riete naby 'n stroompie. Nou moet daai Chardonnay vinnig afkoel!

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Day 17: Warmwaterberg Spa to Barrydale

Meet Joe, Joe from Germany. Joe is a cyclist we met en route to Barrydale, shortly after passing the (in)famous Ronnie's Sex Shop (which we basically missed as it was too early when we went past).

Joe started his cycling journey in Germany 19 months an 27000kms earlier. He has since cycled down the West Coast of Africa, all the way to Cape Town, and when we met he was on his way to the East Coast via the R62, planning to possibly cycle all the way back to Germany. Alone. Unsupported. Respect...

Meeting Joe has been quite a humbling experience - makes our own little venture feel a bit insignificant.

After wishing each other a safe journey, we were on our way, inspired and motivated. A few kilometres later a car stopped and a lady got out. 'I read about you in the papers', she said. 'I also recently cycled 1000km, for a woman with Wilson's Disease'. More inspiration...

It turned out to be quite a social day on the road. A farmer we met as he was moving his cattle from one field to another, caught up with us to enquire about the reason for our walk. An elderly gentleman, Oom Christie from Barrydale Cellars, stopped to offer us a lift. After we explained what we were doing, and why we couldn't accept his offer, he insisted we at least stop by the cellars, where he would make sure we got a good tasting of their wines, and especially their 'Best in the World' award-winning potstil brandy. We obliged, of course.

And best of all, Mrs De Vries from Warmwaterberg Spa (bless her soul) was so kind as to pack some Orange Maid suckers and juices especially for us, which she dropped off with us on her way from Barrydale to the Spa.

Barrydale itself is a lovely little town nestled among the mountains - a refreshing retreat from the hustle and bustle of city life. Which is why it is fast gaining popularity as a breakaway or retirement spot for the rich and famous. As is often the case with these hip country towns, Barrydale sports one supermarket, no pharmacy, and about 20 restaurants. Weird.

We spent the night at Barrydale Backpackers, a delightful, brand new establishment right on the R62. Thanks to Karen to Mark - we had a great stay.

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Dag 16: Rusdag by Warmwaterberg Spa

Blaaskans. Eienaardige woord, maar gegewe my blase-situasie heel gepas. Ons besluit om my blase 'n kans te gee op Warmwaterberg Spa deur 'n dag oor te bly en in die warmbronne rond te hang. Dis veronderstel om healing powers te he.

Al ooit gewonder hoe dit is om vir ongeveer 'n maand met twee stelle klere (wat boonop eners lyk) dag in en dag uit te lewe? Een aan die bas, een in die was. En darem 'n spaar tshirt om in te slaap, iets warm en iets vir reen. Dieselfde paar voos vrot skoene. Elke dag. Selfs as jy bed toe gaan of in die nag 'n draai moet gaan loop en jy slaap buite?

Die antwoord is eenvoudig: who cares?Ek moet erken dat dit hoegenaamd nie pla nie. Die elke dag se wassery is bietjie van 'n nuisance, maar in terme van wat jy aantrek? Huh-uh mister. Who gives a shit.

Ons maak die lewe vir onsself baie complicated. Lewe 'n slag vir jouself en vergeet van die bure! Of mevrou dominee. Live en let live. :)

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Thursday, March 11, 2010

Day 15: Ladismith to Warmwaterberg Spa

Long day today, too long, really... We wanted to split the 50km between Ladismith and Barrydale into two days, but the feedback from everyone we asked was that there's NOTHING before Warmwaterberg Spa, our next scheduled overnight spot. So 50 km it would be...

Wim, our host in Ladismith, was kind enough to get up early to take us into town at 5:00, so at least we didn't have to walk the extra 5km from Elandsvlei. (Thanks again for the lovely farmstay, Gerda & Wim!)

We were underway shortly after 5:00, and walked in the dark (overcast with almost no moon) for almost an hour, and even after sunrise we were blessed with lovely cool overcast conditions. As far as our surroundings were concerned, the people we spoke to were right - nothing happens in the first 50kms after Ladismith. You even have to create your own photo opportunities... But a day isn't made up of surroundings only...

After about 15kms walk, two cyclists came up to us from behind. Turns out 6 buddies were cycling from Howick to the Cape, doing their own version of the Freedom Challenge, culminating in the Cape Argus this coming weekend. They call it the Long Ride - all the best to them!

As we were chatting about long rides and long walks, they mentioned a guy (Tony Tractor :)) who is soon going to embark on an around the world journey on a vintage tractor - apparently it is likely to take something like 5 years! Now there's an interesting new take on endurance sport- sounds amazing!!

A couple of kms later an elderly gentleman stopped to offer us a lift. When we explained that we were doing an unsupported endurance walk and thus couldn't accept his offer, he was quiet for a second, then smiled and asked: 'Shall I go fetch you a doctor, then?'.

While this day has been perhaps the quietest yet in terms of scenery and activity, it definitely takes the prize so far for the loudest support. Trucks and cars honk their horns rhythmically from a 100m away, and keep at it long after they've passed, police vehicles amuse us with an array of their most melodious alarm sounds until they disappear over the horizon, people wave jovially... A lot of fun all around, and it definitely helped the kms go by faster!

With all the foot-niggles and long kms behind us, Wouns (AKA Blister Sister :) ) has lost some speed, so even with all the emotional support along the way, and only short rests every few hours, we still ended up walking until after dark. When we got to the point where, according to our calculations, the turn- off to Warmwaterberg Spa should be, there was still no sign of our destination. As it was getting quite dark, we decided to phone our hosts, who were kind enough to come pick us up on the road. Turns out we still had just under 3kms to go, but we'll make up for the bit of 'cheating' by walking the 3.5km from the Spa back to the R62 at the start of our next leg.

After the 50km leg, and with 8 days of walking without a break behind us, we felt Warmwaterberg Spa was just the place for a day of R&R. Thanks so much to Frieda for throwing in an extra day for free - this means the world to our tired bodies!!

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Dag 14: Amelienstein/Zoar tot Ladismith

Dag 14: Amalienstein/Zoar tot Ladismith Die snaakste ding gebeur. Ons stap nog so lekker annerkant Zoar toe 'n kar van voor af verbyry, omdraai en langs ons kom stilhou. Uit klim die Vader van die Anglikaanse kerk op Zoar en begin staaltjies vertel oor sy werk en die gemeenskap.

Interessant genoeg dink meeste mense (insluitend die Vader) dat ons uitlanders is. Lyk my min locals ervaar ons land op hierdie manier. Kom kom maters - pomp daai fietsies se wiele op trek jou walking boots aan en vlug bietjie uit die corporate en concrete jungle vir 'n paar weke! Jy's gewaarborg om die lewe in 'n nuwe lig te sien :).

Ons praat die laaste paar dae so met locals oor die locals en gemeenskap in die omgewing en een ding blyk tellens na vore te kom: 'n groot persentasie van die gemeenskap is ongelukkig baie lui. Hulle kry mos All Pay so waarom dan nou self worry oor kos op jou tafel. Die arme Vader is skoon moedeloos oor al die gemeenskapsprojekte wat hy al begin het wat tot niks lei nie, omdat die mense nie 'n vinger wil verroer nie. Dis baie sad as jy 'n ou wil leer visvang sodat hy nie altyd iemand anders in die oe hoef te kyk nie, maar hy wil nie self nie. Hy verkies dit om net te kry.

Vroeer het iemand ook vertel dat hulle gratis musieklesse vir die locals aanbied, maar dat die kinders dan net vir 'n maand of twee opdaag. Die moeite om te oefen en op te daag vir lesse, is te veel.

Vertel die vader dat hy by die kerk in die klipperigste grond 'n groentetuin begin het. Skeptiese mense uit sy sak betaal het om te help grond omspit en toe die groentetjies begin groei, staan almal verslae. In 'n poging om die gemeenskap sover te kry om dit volgende keer self te doen, verduidelik hy hoe, en leer hulle en praat en vertel, waarop die een man toe net se^: "Maar Vader moet dit doen". Moedeloos gee Vader die man so een kyk en se^: "Ag gaan kak man!". Ek dog ek lag my 'n papie daar langs die pad. So 'n uitgesproke man :).

Die scenic roete deur Hoeko is pragtig met baie vrugtebome in 'n rural area wat deur die berge kronkel. Die paadjie word uiteindelik 'n grondpad en na ongeveer 16km bereik ons die kant van die dorp. Draai regs af en weer regs tussen die plase in om na ongeveer 1.5km die ronddawel te bereik wat Wim en Gerda le Grange vir ons aangebied het op hulle gasteplaas by Elandsvlei. Heerlik landelik!

In die nag word ek twee maal wakker en hoor hoe dit lekker reen op die dak. Ons hou duimvas die hittegolf is gebeek, want more is weer 'n lang dag van 50km tot by Warmwaterberg Spa.

Oja, vergeet maar van 'n R100-noot in jou skoen wegsteek vir in-case. Binne twee dae het ek al die ink afgeloop en die papier het poreus begin raak.

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Dag 13: Calitzdorp tot Amelienstein/Zoar

Vliee. Groot vliee. Plat vliee. Steekvliee. Klein vliegies. Gewone vliee. Orals. In jou ore, in jou neus, onder jou arms, in jou oe - enige plek waar hulle n bietjie voggies kan kry. Knip jy jou oog op die verkeerde tyd, voel jy hoe fladder vliegvlerkies onder jou ooglede. Net n effense irritasietjie in 44 grade C, sonder n wolkie in die lug.

Vroegoggend stap ons uit Calitzdorp na n lekker lang ruskans terwyl die luggie amper nog koel is. Die pad maak n lang draai om die dorp voordat dit tussen die koppe in verdwyn. Die opdraende het reeds in die dorp begin, maar dit raak net steiler en heftiger wanneer ons die Huisrivierpas tref. Die pas is ongeveer 12km lank, en die paadjie kronkel op en af en tussen en oor die berge deur n pragtige area.

Die draaie is skerp en die stapplek baie min. Op een draai het n groentetrok skynbaar nie sy draai gekry nie en die uie en uieskille le die wereld vol. Gelukkig is daar n paar wat ek summier inpak om later se tuna bietjie woema te gee. Niks soos n rou uitjie en tuna op provita vir n vinnige lunchie nie! (Klink of ons hongerly! :))

Anderkant uit die pas is dit net n paar km voordat ons Barn 62 Backpackers op links aantref. Eintlik vinniger as wat ons gehoop het (voor 2-uur). Hoe meer ons vandag kan stap, hoe minder hoef ons more te stap...

Dis n quaint, groen-geverfde blik-barn met n groot stoep, grasperkie, en lekker kuierarea op die grondvloer. Dorms met beddens is bo. Dwayn ontvang ons by die deur en ons begin sommer dadelik met een van die lekkerste yskoue Savannahs ooit. Snaaks hoedat sulke klein plesiertjies so uitstaan in sekere omstandighede. (After a days walk everything has twice its usual value - George Macauley Trevelyan.)

Nie te lank nie of die buurman, Desmond - n local teacher op Zoar - join ons vir lekker geselsies oor dit en dat. Boeke, die gemeenskap en omgewing, fietsry, visvang, stap, ens.

Teen half-7 sak daar n bui reen uit (!) wat die ergste hitte breek, en eers heelwat later dink ons eers weer aan aandete. Ons het reeds 5 dae in die hittegolf gestap en kan nie wag dat die temperatuur net weer semi-normaal raak nie.

Desmond stel voor dat ons die volgende dag die scenic roete via Hoeko stap wat dalk bietjie langer is, maar heelwat mooier.

Geen bobbejane, min reen, baie muskiete. Dag 13 is in die sakkie.

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Monday, March 8, 2010

Day 12: Amber Lagoon to Calitzdorp

Skuins voor sonop staan ek met 'n koppie duitse troos en wonder wat die dag gaan inhou. Wie gaan ons vandag ontmoet? Watter ander interressante lewens gaan oor ons pad kom?

Soos belowe vertrek ons gasheer 6-uur met ons om ons weer by die R62 af te laai waar hy ons die vorige middag opgepik het. Die son mik nog net om op te kom en ons weet die koel luggie is van korte duur. Die voorspellers se 41 grade C.

95% van die bestuurders op die pad is hul vrolike self - waai, toet, flash ligte of gee n thumbs up! Te wonderlik - baie sosiaal. Jy voel glad nie alleen nie, alhoewel ons benewens binne dorpe, nog geen ander voetgangers op die pad gekry het nie.

Ons vorder goed en teen 8km to go maak n voertuig (met sleepwa!) n U-draai in die pad om voor ons stil te hou. n Jong couple, met baba en hond, bied aan ons druiwe, rehidrate, pleisters, berocca, verbande, salf en raad. 4km verder daag hulle weer op, hierdie keer met aalwynblare vir sonbrand en gauze vir die blase. 'Thanks for the inspiration', se die vrou toe ons wegstap. Sjoe - hoe wonderlik om te weet jy't iemand geinspireer. 'Thanks for your kindness and interest' wil ek se, maar kom nie sover nie. Wat 'n kompliment, en ek is te verslae om ordentlik daarop te reageer.

Maar voor die storie te 'cheesy' raak wil ek darem net se (ongeag baie pyne, en n nuwe ellendige item by die lysie - n soolvrat!) is hierdie die greatste ervaring ooit! Moeilikheidsgraad: Die Cape Odyssey x 10 (tot sover :) ) By Calitzdorp aangekom staan n man in sy voordeur en vra: 'Where are you two off to?'. 'Yzerfontein', se Gerry. 'Crazy', se die man. En met n selfvoldane smile stap ons weg - eerder crazy as net wees.

Bougainvillea Backpackers is ons gesponserde oornagpunt - dankie aan Elana! Beste van alles is geen ander gaste is bespreek nie, en ons het die hele huis vir onsself. Nie dat ons nou skielik op die beddens gaan spring en op die tafels dans nie, maar die privaatheid is lekker en maak wasgoed was bv baie makliker - jy hoef nie panties en bra's op te hang op n plek waar dit dalk iemand gaan offend nie! :)

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Day 11: Oudtshoorn to Amber Lagoon

Man, it's hot! This was our third day in the midst of a full-blown Karoo heatwave, with temperatures on the road well in excess of 40 degrees C.

We got away to a later than average start at around 7:00, and spent the first hour walking through town. Nearing the edge of town, a lady out walking with her dogs suggested that we should really start walking earlier in this heat. Indeed, but since it only gets light at 6:00 around here, that means you miss all the scenery. Bit of a catch-22, really...

We originally planned to walk all the way to Calitzdorp today, but in this heat that didn't seem a realistic option, so I started phoning ahead trying to find an intermediate overnight spot. After some failed attempts, we came across Amber Lodge, a German-owned Backpackers almost midway between Oudtshoorn an Calitzdorp, but 7km off the R62.

Fortunately the owners, Susan and Kurt, were kind enough to agree to pick us up at the R62, and bring us back the next morning - thanks guys!!

It was hot as hell, without a cloud in the sky, and by 12:00 we realised we had to get some shade to cool our bodies back to more humane temperatures, so we pulled into a shady picnic spot (few and far between in these areas). We had only been sitting a while when a bakkie pulled in. A man and woman got out and, miracle of miracles, offered us a bag of ice!

This was a wonderful gift, as all our water was already way beyond lukewarm by now. Turns out the couple operated an ice delivery business, and were themselves keen hikers, so they had sympathy for our situation. How cool is that (no pun intended!)?

We reached the Amber Lagoon turn-off at 17:00, where we were picked up by Kurt. At the Backpackers, a great rustic retreat in the middle of nowhere, a dip in their pool and a couple of Windhoek Drafts did wonders to cool us down.

By the way, if you're as curious as I was about the name Amber Lagoon for a backpackers in the middle of the Karoo, it turns out it's the name of the ship by which owner Susan arrived in the country approximately 6 years ago, and has nothing to do with any colour lagoon in the mountains! :)

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Day 10: Zebra Lodge to Oudtshoorn

It was another absolute scorcher today. I woke up in a sweat, and basically never stopped sweating profusely until the day was over. Wouna and I probably both suffered mild heat exhaustion the previous day, as we both experienced headaches and a generally nausious feeling. Luckily Wouna had the bright idea that we should freeze our waterbottles, which definitely helped for the first few kilometres.

We started the day with a nice dirt road section running parallel to the N12. This allowed us to at least get a start away from the traffic and to miss the early morning rush between George and Oudtshoorn.

Once back on the N12, progress was slow as a result of all the cars charging by - each time you have to step off the road onto the very rough shoulder where speedy progress is almost impossible.

As we were strolling along, Wouna suddenly noticed a small tortoise halfway across the road. A big truck sped by, frightening the poor animal to a stand-still, and there it sat with 3 cars coming towards us. In a total panic, we started waving at the cars and pointing at the motionless tortoise. The first two apparently understood our signals, as they swerved and missed. The third driver, however, was so stunned or confused by our antics that it ended up pulling to the side of the road to check if we were OK! At least the crises was averted and we managed to carry the tortoise across the road to safety.

En route to Oudtshoorn the road makes some grand sweeps across the mountains, which is very scenic, but not a joy to walk. Often the inside of the curve has no shoulder to walk on, while the outside feels quite risky, with passing cars often appearing not in full control of where they're going.

About 5km from town we found our first open, working farm stall, Bakenskraal, so we immediately pulled in for some cool refreshment. An icy Coke and Fanta and some friendly chatter with the shop-owner later, we were on our way again.

We spent the night at Karoo Soul, a very classy and upmarket backpackers centrally located in town - thanks for the free camping spot, Ilse! Being in the first 'big' town since the start of our trip, we made the most of our opportunities to stock up on emergency food and medical supplies.

We had a lovely cool Sauvignon Blanc (food for the soul!) with our dinner, before retiring to some much needed, but much to short, rest.

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Friday, March 5, 2010

Dag 9: Louvain tot Zebra Lodge (40km in 40 grade C)

Het jy al ooit buite in die son gestaan as dit 40 grade C is? Het jy al ooit heeldag buite in die son gestaan as dit 40 grade C is? Het jy al ooit heeldag buite in die son gestap met n rugsak op as dit 40 grade C is? Sien waarheen hierdie storie lei - ek probeer net die punt maak van ongelooflike, uitmergelende hitte. Die tipe waar jy in n half beswymende toestand stap terwyl jy jou verbeel elke klip en elke stok is n mamba of ander gedierte!

Louvain gasteplaas is pragtig, kompleet met kerkie en al vir jong boertjies van die kontrei wat "die knoop wil deurhaak". Ons vertrek eers half-7 en moet die ongeveer 2.5km op die plaas ook stap voor ons weer die R62 bereik. Almal met wie ons praat stel voor dat ons die plaaspaaie stap wat ongeveer parallel aan eers die N9 en dan die N12 loop, maar dalk 'n paar kilometers langer is.

Dit klink sommer na 'n bak plan om vir 'n slag grondpaaie in plaas van snelwee te stap, en na ongeveer 8km op die N9 (Route 62) draai die grondpad af om deur die Eseljagspoort te gaan. Ons stop vinnig om voete te lawe en versterkings te eet en begin dan met die 24km stuk grondpad.

Nie 'n kar in sig nie en ons kan lekker in die middel van die pad stap om seker te maak dat daar nie dalk onverwags 'n slang uit die gras seil nie! Stadig maar seker gaan die kilometers verby terwyl die kwik reeds op 40 grade staan. Het jy al ooit ...? :)

Baie gou is al 8 liter water wat ons saamdra ook 40 grade - selfs die wat tussen ander goed in die middel van die rugsak gepak is! Alles insluitend die rugsak is kokend warm en op die hele pad is nie 'n boom in sig nie.

Ons loop later mekaar se skaduwee en probeer onthou hoe gaan "Oom Jan sny koring in die land". Die omgewing is droog, klipperig en baie stof. Lyk na meerendeels volstruis en skaapboerdery. Plek-plek waar daar w dammetjies water is, staan die bekommerde skapies in hul hordes pensdiepte in die water.

Teen 17:20 bereik ons die einde van die grondpad waar dit weer aansluit by die N12. Nog n kilometer verder en die afdraai na Zebra Lodge is op links. Van hier nog 3.5km tot by die pragtigste ou plaashuis waar ons tuisgaan. Gelukkig kry die eienaar ons sommer vroeg in die inrit en kan ons saamry huistoe.

Ons drink n hoendersoppie op die stoep en kyk hoe die son ondergaan. Op die horison is n paar vlieswolkies en heimlik hoop ons hulle wil hul stem dik maak en damme vol reen!

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Day 8: Uniondale to Louvain

Knowing that we have a fairly long day ahead, and that we might not progress very fast as a result of foot troubles, we opted for an extra early start. We left Kammanassie Backpackers at 5:00, Norman and Sue kindly driving us to our starting point at the R62/N9 intersection.

Our walk got underway at 5:20, in the dark with an icy wind in our backs. Thoughts of the "spook van Uniondale" involuntary played in our minds...

It stayed cold till well after sunrise due to the wind, but it wasn't long before the sun started making it's presence felt.

Since we were in a sense testing Wouna's 'roadworthiness' after the recovery day, our times and distances were carefully planned. We knew according to all info that we had exactly 35km to walk, and we should make it to our destination by 17:00 at the latest. So you can imagine our shock when, after 20km, a passerby told us we still had 35km to go!

We again confirmed distances, and decided to push along. Upon reaching our target distance, however, there was still no sign of Louvain farm. We walked on for another kilometre, when a local farmer (Kobus Kamfer of neighbouring farm Ganzekraal) informed us we still had about 6km to go - not what you want to hear at 17:30 in the afternoon with burning blisters!

Luckily, with the assistance of a lift into the farm's 2.5km driveway, we made our destination before dark.

The stay at Louvain was great, and our hosts assisted us figuring out our route for day 9. The guesthouse itself is quite stunning, and as someone who's photographed a few weddings in my time, I can just imagine the great shots you can get in that setting!

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Tuesday, March 2, 2010

Day 7: Rest, recovery and reflection in Uniondale


Reviewing the condition of Wouna's red and swollen blisters this morning, we realised we didn't have much of a choice but to call a rest day, and spend some quality time with our feet in the air.

Besides allowing our bodies to get over some of the shock of what hit them the previous 6 days, it also gave us time to eventually catch up on our blog updates (thanks to Norman and Kammanassie Backpackers for allowing us to use their internet for free) and to think back over the trip so far.

A moment that stood out was when we passed a local on the side of the road, who turned, looked at us quizzingly and asked: "Where is this journey taking you?". Quite a fundamental question, and one we're still contemplating.

Almost like Ryan Adams' question "If I could find my way back home, where would I go?".

Definitely something worth reflecting on. If we find the answer somewhere down the road, we'll be sure to let you know!

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Monday, March 1, 2010

Day 6: Haarlem to Uniondale


Haarlem is 'n klein-klein landelike dorpie met ongeveer 9 blanke inwoners. As gevolg van die droogte het die damvlakke gedaal tot net 20% wat tot gevolg het dat die water nie regtig meer "fit for human consumption" is nie. Gelukkig het 1 inwoner 'n fontein op sy landgoed wat almal van drinkwater voorsien.

Die nare gevolg van die water probleem is dat my heerlike bad van die vorige aand, waar ek my moee voete lekker ge-soak het in die onsuiwer water (waarvan ek op die tyd onbewus was), die blase heeltemal ontsteek het. Alles is opgehewe, rooi en vuurwarm.

Ons spring net na 6-uur weg terwyl die lug nog koel is en die son net-net mik oor die berge. Na ongeveer 5km kom die spuitnaald weer uit en Gerry besluit om hierdie keer die gevreesde bruin voggies toe te dien. 'n Paar vloeke later, Berocca Calmag as troosprys en ons is vort.

Hierdie deel van die pad is steeds deel van die Langkloof alhoewel 'n vroeere bord aangedui het dat die Langkloof net anderkant Misgund stop. Die rede hiervoor is die Oos-Kaap/Wes-Kaap grens, en watter munisipaliteit vir die bord betaal! Oos-Kaap, betaal, so wat hulle aanbetref eindig die Langkloof op die grens...

Die paadjie loop steeds op en af teen die bultjies en weerskante appel en peer boorde. Plek-plek is plukkers soms al singende en soms kastig skellend op mekaar, hard aan die werk op lang lere tussen die bome. Teen ongeveer 12:00 bereik ons Avontuur. 'n Entjie voor ons in die pad hou 'n voertuig stil en 'n vrou klim uit met die Kouga Express koerant. "Is dit julle die?", en vra of ons die beriggie al gesien het. Hulle is boere in die omgewing en besit ook 'n gasteplaas naby Avontuur.

Die laaste paar dae is bloedig warm wat dit onmoontlik maak om drinkwater onder "warm" te hou. Nog ongeveer 12km en ons bereik die einde van die Langkloof in die Uniondale omgewing teen ongeveer 14:30.

Ons gaan tuis by Kammanassie Backpackers op Uniondale, wat ook aan Peter Earle behoort. Norman en Sue, die managers, bederf ons met 'n hele kamer plus badkamer vir onsself, asook 'n heerlike aandete.

O ja, en my verkoue is ten spyte van - eerder as gevolg van - die nat weer, sonbrand en blootstelling aan die elemente 100% beter!

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Day 5: Louterwater to Haarlem


After being picked up by Janine and dropped off at the entrance to Louterwater Estate, we were on our way around 6:30.

Due to the previous day being a little shorter than anticipated, day 5 became longer, but still manageable at just over 30km. The weather had changed from cool and overcast earlier in our trip to blazingly hot - so much so that by midday the water in our water bottles was on the warm side of luke-warm. Not nice at all!

Luckily this was the one day where we actually passed a town/settlement en route, in the form of the small town of Misgund. Here we bought massive juicy pears (R1 each) from a local by the roadside - unfortunately probably stolen fruit, but we were too hot and tired to worry about that. We also bought Yogi-sip and cooldrinks which provided a much needed boost.

An interesting experience, walking in the Langkloof this time of year, is the constant, faint smell of rotting fruit - apples and pears on the roadside that must have falled off trucks. Not bad, just a distinct, sweet smell, almost like apple juice.

After crossing the border between the Eastern and Western Cape, we reached the town of Haarlem by 3:30, happy with our good progress, but didn't realise how long and spread out the town was. Being tired, sore and slow by this time, it took us another hour and a half to reach our destination - the house of Peter and Sheila Earle, which Peter kindly offered to us as a place to stay 2 days earlier. We had a great evening with the Earle's, with cold beer, a nice hot home-cooked meal and many stories about the interesting little town of Haarlem. Thanks so much for this, Peter and Sheila.

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Day 4: Joubertina to Louterwater


After two very long days on the road, getting up for Day 4's journey required some serious mental gymnastics. At least the realisation that this was going to be one of the shorter days helped to get us on the road.

Due to arriving after the shops had closed the previous night, we were forced to do some early morning shopping before the start of the day. I jogged (well, almost) the 2km back to town, got what I could in terms of supplies, and we eventually got underway at 9:30 - our latest start yet.

Physically the day was fairly uneventful, except for Wouna's niggling blisters that required some severe interventions in the form of excrutiatingly painful Friar's Balsam injections - not something I'd wish on my worst enemy!

The scenery remained incredible, with apple and pear orchards stretching out on each side, bordered by magnificant mountains. Even the drought and veld fires couldn't blemish the beauty of the region.

Being a Saturday, the level of social activity en route was quite high. Party revellers were speeding in every direction, obviously under the influence. This was a bit nerve-wrecking from roadside, but luckily there were no insidents that we were aware of. There also appeared to be a soccer game underway somewhere, as loads of supporters, on foot and in cars, passed us in the direction of Joubertina.

People's roadside reactions remained friendly and supportive, with everyone hooting and waving, and two people stopping to commend our efforts and promising to pray for our wellbeing on the road.

After passing Louterwater station, we were suprised to reach Louterwater Estate sooner than anticipated. What a lovely suprise! Owner Janine came and fetched us at the entrance and drove us 5km into the farm to the most magnificant setting - 4 log cabins set amidst the mountains!

The area had no cellphone reception, so we were unable to inform our families of our safe arrival. Just as we were about to go to bed for the night, we were suprised by the arrival of a police van - sent by worried family to come check if we were OK! More suprisingly, one of the officers turned out to be the same guy who stopped next to us earlier in the day to wish us well on our travels! Small world!

Our overnight spot at Louterwater Estate was absolutely breathtaking - thanks so much to Janine for the opportunity to recharge body and soul!

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Day 3: Kareedouw to Joubertina


Happy birthday, dear Harry - happy birthday to you! Hiep-hiep-hoera!

Ons vertrek weer later as beplan (7:00) vanaf n koel, bewolkte Kareedouw. Die langkloof is pragtig. En die pad wat deur die berge kronkel is steeds undulating - bultjie op bultjie af. Die veldbrande het kwaai verwoesting gesaai, maar met die reen van die afgelope tyd is die nuwe groei amper onnatuurlik groen teen die swart as en boomstompe.

"The long and winding road" van die Beatles draai in my kop terwyl ons treetjie vir treetjie die kilometers aftel. Nie lank nie, of n motreentjie sak uit. Maar die reenbaadjies was skaars aan of dit klaar op - vir die res van die dag.

Ons skoene is nog nat van die vorige dag wat tot gevolg het dat ons voete baie vinnig reeds soos pruimedante lyk! En ek het ongelukkig voetsole wat 3 sizes te groot is vir my voete! Blase is dus onafwendbaar deel van my roetine. Maar ek het voorsorg getref hierdie keer met goeie raad van 'n mede-Cape-Odyssey deelnemer, Greg, wat voorgestel het dat jy die blaas met Friars Balsam moet inspuit. Dit werk soos 'n bom, maar ek het net een woord om dit te beskryf: "%$#&#@!!$$%"!!!

Gerry se 'mechanics' is klaarblyklik beter ontwerp as myne, want benewens ligte spierpyn in hy so reg soos 'n roer. Gelukkig!

Alhoewel dit al bietjie gereen het in die Langkloof, is die riviere en damme maar baie droog.

Die Langkloof se mense is baie vriendelik: een man bied aan om ons 'n lift te gee, terwyl 'n ander sy reuse trok langs die pad teen 'n bult tot stilstand bring omvir ons 6 yskoue vars appels te bring - absoluut hemels! Dankie! Nog 'n vrou wat ons uit Karedouw sien stap het, en ons verblyf situasie met die eienaar (Anton?) van The Nest opgehaal het, kom van voor af 10km terug gery om blyplek aan te bied! (Ons was egter reeds geholpe met verblyf by Die Kraaltjie.) En ongeveer 2km verder stop Peter om vir ons blyplek op Haarlem aan te bied by hom en sy vrou Shiela. Wat 'n wonderlike verjaarsdag geskenk! Die Langkloof is 'n wonderlike gebied - besoek dit eendag.

Die tweede lang dag in 'n ry op die pad word ook 'n laat aand. Ons arriveer teen 19:00 by die afrit tot Joubertina en ons planne om 'n bubbly of wyntjie te koop om Gerry se verjaarsdag te vier lei tot niks. Winkels is reeds toe en die kroeg en restaurant by Die Ark op Roete 62 verkoop nie bottels nie - reels is reels.

Nog 2km verder bereik ons die Kraaltjie, en nog 'n kampeer-aanbieding verander in 'n heerlike cottage vir die aand. Baie dankie, Elize, ons het heerlik gebly!

En so lei die "Long and winding road" ons deur 'n pragtige deel van SA, die Langkloof, op Gerry se verjaarsdag. Wat 'n dag om te onthou!

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